2009 One Hope chardonnay

Robert Mondavi Jr. helped make it, much of its proceeds go to charity, and it is a caramel-covered, toasted marshmallow in a glass. Oozy-sweet, and exactly what the ladies want in a breast cancer chardonnay in October.

Do I sound snippy or unappreciative? I don't mean to. I would prefer a chardonnay that is a little more subtle -- a fine, tart apple dipped in just a little oozy-sweet, gourmet caramel -- that's all. But One Hope is perfectly formulated. I would pair it with some sort of guilty-pleasure snacky-wacky. Remember a long time ago, when we were having chips and dip and a seven-dollar (Liebfraumilch) riesling, and watching Die Hard?

One Hope chardonnay simply cries out for similar treatment. Popcorn popped in bacon fat and dusted with black pepper, and a night spent watching The Birds? Katie's fruit crisp, and an afternoon enjoying the big game? All the lush offerings of a Sunday brunch, like ham, hash browns, waffles, fruit salads, muffins, and cookies, and a morning of good gossip? Your decision.

One thing though. Isn't the label a bit dreary for something to do with hope?