2006 Geyser Peak merlot

After a month and a half of Chiantis, all very good, one wants a respite from their prickly, horsy, olive brine and raspberry-patch flavors. So, one chooses a California merlot -- calm, just a touch of spice and a touch of mashed dark berries, and a touch of cedar. Very delicious.

Retail, about $12.