2009 Vini Ciccariello pinot grigio del Veneto I.G.T. Colli Urbis

The Italian label information just goes on and on. "Bottled by Casa Vinicola Ciccariello s.r.l., Gaeta, Italy." And by the way, what a terrible label as far as graphic design is concerned. Far too much going on, and the black background is no help whatever.

But, for a retail price of about $4 to $5, what a delightful wine. The pinot grigio is not a grape to go tiger shooting with (as historian Paul Johnson once remarked of British prime minister John Major) but this one happily possesses some virtues. It's less woody than its famed compatriot, Santa Margherita, and not as watery as many $5 California examples. It's simply light, reminiscent of an unripe peach barely dipped in a bit of low-cal caramel sauce with a peanut on top, that is if you close your eyes and concentrate really hard -- and its acidity is pleasantly palate-cleansing and thirst-quenching. If you find a bottle, dig out the wallet, or rather fish about in your pocket for loose change, and take the plunge. You won't be sorry.