Thursday, November 6, 2008

Rouladins

Rouladins (pronounced roo-LAH-dins) are an old family favorite from my growing up years. I have never seen a recipe for them in any cookbook, and so don't know what ethnic origin they may be or what variations on them may exist. They make for a very simple recipe. You start with beef round steak, some sliced onion, dill pickle spears, and bacon. Real bacon is best, but I used turkey bacon and the smoky flavor seemed just about right.



One pound of round steak will give you four roughly uniform pieces. With a heavy saucer, you can pound each steak a little tenderer than it would be otherwise. Lay on a strip or two of bacon, then a piece of onion and a dill pickle spear. Roll up the steak and either secure the package with toothpicks (my dad could do this, but it is tricky) or tie it at both ends with kitchen string.

Then you will simply brown each meat package in olive oil or shortening. All the cookbooks are right, of course, about not crowding the pan, lest the meat steam to grayness rather than sear nicely. I did two at a time, and removed each batch before browning the next.



When the last batch of little meat packages is browned, return them all to the pot and add water to about halfway up their depth in it. The bacon and pickle in the recipe mean you do not need to add salt to this broth. Bring the rouladins to a boil, and then either turn the heat down and simmer them carefully for two or three more hours, or cover the pot with a lid and put it in a 350 degree oven. After it has baked for an hour, turn the heat down to 225 and let the stew cook slowly for two or three more hours. When you are ready to serve, you can thicken the broth with a combination of flour and cold water dissolved together and stirred into the pot.

For some reason, rouladins make this excellent, velvety brown gravy effortlessly. Mashed potatoes are vital to accompany it. A sweet vegetable like carrots or peas is also a good counterpoint to the piquancy of pickle, onion, and bacon in the beef.



The choice of wine to go with this is something that I think would challenge anyone. A workhorse sweet riesling? A big, heavy, California cabernet? I chose what I hoped would be the fleshy but un-tannic, solid berry flavors of an everyday ($8.99) Rhone red: Parallele 45 Cotes du Rhone 2006, from Paul Jaboulet Aine (60 percent grenache, 40 percent syrah). Pretty good the first night, better the next night with the leftovers.

5 comments:

  1. Hi, Nancy:

    Here's the Rouladin recipe I mentioned.

    Beef Rouladen

    3 slices bacon, cut in half
    1 ½ pounds thinly sliced round steak (1/4 in. thick)
    2 T Dijon mustard
    3 med. dill pickles, cut in quarters lengthwise
    6 med. carrots (about 1 pound), cut in quarters lengthwise
    ¼ cup finely chopped onion
    1 can Campbell’s Golden Mushroom or Beefy Mushroom Soup*
    ½ cup chopped celery
    ½ cup chopped parsnips
    2 T chopped parsley

    In skillet, cook bacon until crisp; remove and crumble. Cut meat into 6 pieces (6x4”); pound. Spread each with 1 tsp. mustard. Place 2 pieces of pickle and 4 pieces of carrot across the narrow end; sprinkle with 2 tsp. onion. Starting at narrow end, roll up. Tuck in ends; fasten with toothpicks or skewers. Brown roll-ups in drippings; pour off fat. Stir in soup, celery, parsnips and parsley. Cover; cook over low heat 1 hour 15 minutes. Stir occasionally. Thin with water if desired. Serve with mashed potatoes. Garnish with bacon. Makes 6 servings.

    * This recipe was cut out of a magazine from Feb. 1980; I don’t know if Campbells still makes these versions, but I know they still have the regular cream of mushroom soup. Also, I didn’t use the parsnips. And I don’t think Dad ever used carrots in his recipe, so you could eliminate them as well, and it wouldn’t make a difference. Bon appetit!
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  2. Thanks Pat! And wouldn't you know it -- today I happened to find a recipe in an old book for "Hunter's Beef," which calls for a paste of anchovies and capers to be added to the stuffing -- and then the pickle. And at the end you add sour cream to the gravy. Whew! Rich, and salty, stuff.
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  3. Hi my name is Lena and my father was Polish.
    In the town of Tarnoskie Gory, pronounced Goury, in the south of Poland Roladens were served on special occasions.

    He was a great cook and would often serve Roladens up with what he called 'Polish Cabbage'

    Sliced onions cooked off in small cubes of bacon fat.
    Sliced Red Cabbage, cooked in a separate pan with a small amount of water.
    When the cabbage was tender the water was strained off and everything was mixed in together.
    He would then add vinegar until the cabbage turned bright red again.
    Season to taste.

    He would make the gravy for the Roladins by adding sour cream to the juices left over from the meat.

    I shall be cooking this for a special Sunday Lunch next weekend.
    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you, Lena, that all sounds very good. I think I remember my dad saying that his side of the family came from a part of Germany close to Poland, so perhaps that explains why this was a family recipe.
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